Louis Vuitton

22. února 2006 v 21:10 | Vemiii |  návrháři
Louis Vuitton
Imitace je prý upřímnou formou lichotky a neexistuje zřejmě jiná značka, která vyplodila tolik kopií svých výrobků jako Louis Vuitton. Levné kopie Louis Vuittonových luxusních kabelek se prodávají na rozích ulic po celém světě a pro člověka, který sní o vybraném koženém zboží a doplňcích, ale nemůže si je dovolit, představuje nákup kopie jedinou šanci jak pocítit alespoň vzdálený závan půvabu, který značku Louis Vuitton obklopuje.
Tradice Louis Vuittona jde hodně zpátky do historie. Společnost byla založena roku 1854 výrobcem zavazadel Louis Vuittonem Mallatierem, který položil základy designu, kladením důrazu na mimořádně vysokou kvalitu a řemeslné umění v každém výrobku. Uspokovat přání a požadavky bohatých znamenalo někdy uspokojovat výstřední zakázky jako byl například toaletní kufřík z krokodýlí kůže a želvího krunýře pro známou operní pěvkyni.
V posledních letech oprášila značka Louis Vuitton svou jemně zatuchlou image. Kabelky, stále vytvářené z exotických kůží jako aligátoří, ještěrčí či pštrosí, byly aktualizovány do moderních verzí sportovního luxusu. Největší revoluční změnou bylo jmenování mladého amerického návrháře Marca Jacobse do funkce uměleckého ředitele a to v březnu roku 1997 a představení jeho linie praktického/denního oblečení.
Charismatický a fotogenický Marc Jacobs byl po dlouhou dobu miláčkem New Yorských módních kritiků. V roce 1987, když mu bylo pouhých 24 let, vyhrál prestižní CFDA cenu pro "Nový módní talent". V roce 1992 a 1998 vyhrál opět tentokrát pro "Nejlepšího návrháře dámského oblečení". V roce 1992 vytvořil známou kolekci pro značku Perry Ellis, která obsahovala ručně šité, vrstvené, vínově zbarvené šaty, které módní redaktoři milovali a zbytek světa nenáviděl. Perry Ellis se přiklonil na stranu lidu a následně Jacobse vyhodil.
V linii Louise Vuittona byl Marc Jacobs jednoznačně komerční. Na rozdíl od svých britských protějšků v Paříži, Johna Galliana a Alexandra McQueena, Jacobsovy návrhy neobsahovaly žádnou šokovou taktiku. Zmírněné a jednoduché, z jeho oblečení doslova prýští hravý přepych. První kolekce pro podzim/zimu 98/99 obdržela od francouzského tisku vlažnou odezvu, když o ní psali jako o uhlazené a stydlivé avšak v New Yorku a Londýně získala opatrnější pochvalu.
Jeho druhá kolekce, nicméně, získala všechny. S barevnou paletou, která se rozpínala od bílé, béžové a khaki po citrónovou a růžovou, byly šaty svěží a nevině sexy. Krátké šortky byly párované s průsvitnými pláštěnkami, kalhoty byly zastřiženy a objevil se tam i hravé, sportovní doteky jako postraní kapsy na večerních šatech. Ale předmět, který dokonale spojil starý a nový svět Louise Vuittona, byla motorkářská helma s tradičním emblémem LV.
 

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